豚王 (銅鑼灣)

有留意我的食評的朋友，都應該知道我是豚王的支持者。從豚王銅鑼灣分店開張，一連吃了四天已可知一二。

不過支持不等於盲從附和，我也是會覺得豚王有不足之處，以下這篇文章，就是我對豚王的一點不同看法。赤王是辣味版豚王，現在的這個赤王，和我在中環第一次吃豚王的時候差太遠了。那個時候的赤王，辣得有勁，但不會過辣，辣的來源全靠中間那團辣肉醬，湯底就是豚王那招牌豬骨湯。

現在你看到的這個赤王，除了那辣肉醬外，連那湯底也是赤紅一片，這個辣度已經超乎我所能接受的界限，過辣的味道，完全蓋過了豬骨味，可能嗜辣之徒會很喜歡，但這個赤王已經完全不是我杯茶。以前我較喜歡赤王多於翠王，但現在剛好相反。現在的翠王是明顯地改良了。翠綠的湯底上，灑上了芝士粉，份量比例調整得更好。

以前吃翠王的問題是因為芝士很多，加上豚骨湯後感覺異常肥膩，現在翠綠份量加多，芝士份量減了，肥膩感也減低了。怪不得後來有不少食友也說翠王好吃，原來就是經過改量過。豚王身為拉麵市場的領導者，仍不會固步自封，除了開業的四王外，隨後慢慢加了元氣王、海老王等，都已經是長期供應。

後來還有限定王，供應期只有數週，每天限定20碗，如果食客反應良好，說不定會加進長期餐牌。意大利王是限定王的其中一款，一看名字就知道是意大利風的豚王拉麵，蕃茄豬骨湯底加上了芝士粉，有點像翠王的變奏版。湯上那個大蕃茄，算是豚王過往眾多拉麵中比較特別的設計。

蕃茄味道和豬骨湯還算合拍，蕃茄的比重不會很重，沒有掩蓋掉豬骨的味道，不多不少的芝士粉也有畫龍點睛的功用，但敗筆之處是那豚王引以為傲的秘製辣醬，可說是完全地蓋過了蕃茄的味道，也使得味道有點怪怪。雖誰這秘製辣醬要不要加是你的自由，但我覺得店員最好還是提點一下，或者辣醬另上會較好。對了，豚王又再一次推出半熟蛋，原隻沒有切開，吃的時候一咬開，流心度很高，水準依然。雖然價錢提高了，不過個人覺得還是物有所值的。在微博得知中環豚王某一天推出當日限定的裡豚王，限售三百碗，所以就來碰碰運氣，看看有機會吃到。

原來當日限定的意思，是指豚王這一天不賣別的，只賣裡豚王，就連半熟蛋也欠奉，沒賣的東西在下單紙會完全被刪去。我看到不少食客坐下來才知道今天只有一款，他們是有點失望的。裡豚王是雞和豚的混合，說起雞湯，不禁令人想起打正旗號以雞湯掛帥的鳥華，鳥華的湯是純雞湯，難免會覺得單調；裡豚王的湯底是雞和豚的組合，味道層次上是提高了，情況就有如中國人煲雞湯一樣，加入瘦肉會使湯頭更甜，我相應該是有異曲同功的功效吧。

說回裡豚王，雞湯的味道和豬骨湯結合後很不錯，兩者味道相輔相成。不過和意大利王有著同一問題，就是那秘製辣醬再一次破壞了那平衡感。把辣醬攪勻後，雞湯的味道被完全地蓋過。

後來回家看看拍好的照片，秘製辣醬不是已被刪去了的嗎？如果店方也認為不下會較好，就不要加進去吧！另外，裡豚王的叉燒是有點不同的，用了五花腩的部位，表面經過微烤，小小的一塊既香也肥美，配雞湯效果更佳。到銅鑼灣覆診的這一天，先來豚王醫醫肚。今天的限定王是超元氣王，從名字已得知是元氣王的加強版，名字很「龍珠」，喜歡元氣王的我當然點來試試。

超元氣王賣相很不錯，在原來的元氣王上，依舊的有著那團咖哩肉醬，上面放上芽菜，再灑上咖哩粉。叉燒從豬肉改成牛肉，以配咖哩味來說，牛肉有著完全不同的感覺，和豬肉相比，各有各的優勝之處。

把咖哩肉醬攪勻，咖哩的味道香而不辣，湯底變得很濃很稠，個人覺得已經不能說是「咖哩湯」，而是「咖哩汁」了，好端端的一碗拉麵，變得好像咖哩撈麵，愈吃愈是肥膩，除非你是咖哩的狂熱愛好者，不然我相信很少人會接受得到。對了，豚王也變得愈來愈細心，現在有提供髮束及紙圍巾給食客，也有提供紙巾，以我所見，中環和銅鑼灣兩間店都有主動提供，各位以後就算是大熱天也不用吃得很狼狽了。

最近幾次來豚王，都沒有最開始來豚王時的激情感覺，雖然我是忠實粉絲，但也不是盲目的。就只望豚王不是走火入魔，原本的幾種味道還能保持水準的話，我還是會光顧的。

豚王 (中環)

前言：

1000篇了！終於1000篇了！自從 2008年8月，自己無意中瀏覽到 Openrice 網站，一時興起寫下第一篇文字簡單，照片欠奉的粗疏食評後，便好像一部跑車開動了引擎一樣，勇往直前，愈戰愈勇，經過三年多的歲月，終於由 10篇、100篇、500篇 ...... 一直寫到如今的第 1000篇，實在是意想不到，始料不及。

在這三年多裡，雖然自己寫下了這麼多篇食評，當中也有些用心之作，可以承蒙 Openrice 編輯的賞識，得以成為編輯推介，又或是得到其他食家的欣賞，給予自己不少鼓勵，但畢竟，要持續不斷地有高質素的食評推出，絕對並非易事，要想在食評質與量之間取個平衡，便唯有在寫得多之餘，只揀選部分特別有感覺，印象特別深刻的食肆來寫，才會特別多花一點心思去把這些食評寫得好些，至於其他較普通，印象不是特別深刻的食肆，則只會隨意所之，在下筆之前不會特別構思便一揮而就。也所以，雖然自己有幸登上「殿堂食家」之林中，但對於一些只因累積食評篇數不足 500篇而暫時未有成為「殿堂食家」級別的高手，好像 Foxyleo、西打哥、Kent、龍五等特別欣賞，欣賞他們貴精不貴多的認真態度，欣賞他們不寫則已，一寫則幾乎必屬佳品的厲害，也欣賞他們總能找到十分有水準的食肆的本事，比起我這個每10篇食評可能才有一兩篇較佳作品的「殿堂食家」來說，實在是強得多了，我是由衷的佩服他們。不過從另一方面想，要不是我冒著部分食評有濫竽充數的嫌疑，而要求自己每篇皆是精品的話，我也不會這麼快便爬上金字塔的最頂層呢！

第 1000篇食評，確是值得記念，畢竟，在 Openrice 中登記的超過五十萬食家之中，有多少人是只看不寫，連一篇食評都未寫過的呢？又有多少人是能夠持之以恆地寫到這個篇數的呢？更有多少人是曾寫了過千篇食評，但已擱筆良久，很久不曾有食評刊登過的呢？所以，所有現仍活躍於 Openrice 這個全港最受歡迎的飲食網站平台中，總食評篇數已達 500篇或以上，而且仍然不斷有好文章發表的「殿堂食家」，我也同樣欣賞，這些高手的豐富飲食經驗與各有風格的文筆，同樣極具參考價值。

說了這麼久，連我都差點忘了要寫食評了。那這篇食評的主角是誰？不問而知，當然是「豚王」啦！「豚王」？不是吧？有關它的食評已有那麼多，還用再寫嗎？在 Openrice 中所有殿堂或資深食家，就算不是全部都去吃過拉麵，也起碼有三分二了吧？他們的精彩食評，不是應該已把「豚王」的一切都講盡了嗎？還用再寫？

不是的！以「豚王」在香港的地位，我覺得以它作為我的第 1000篇紀念食評，是最適合不過的，也很配合我僥倖獲得的「日本菜達人」的身份（說真的，我在覺得榮幸的同時，也感到愧不敢當，比我更懂得吃日本菜的食家，相信大有人在呢）。

更何況，寫食評從來都只是主觀的感覺吧了，我覺得好味的，其他人可能不以為然；我覺得難吃的，其他人可能又會覺得十分滋味，我總不成把其他人的感覺當成是自己的感覺吧？既然這樣，那便把自己慕名已久，但因為怕排隊而一直未試，直到個多月前才終於把心一橫一嚐它傳說中的美味的「豚王」的食後感作為自己第 1000篇食評的紀念作吧！

畢竟，人生有幾多個十年？食評，又能有幾多個 1000篇呢？

正文：

還記得年多以前，當時香港的日本拉麵熱潮才剛興起，那時候香港最有實力的日本拉麵名店，個人認為包括 「豚王」、 「創作麵工房」Mist 和 「達磨」三家，過江猛龍「一風堂」還未登陸香港，更遑論現時加入戰團，希望在這日本拉麵市場上分一杯羹，甚至登上日本拉麵皇者寶座的「魂」、「麵屋武藏」、「龍也」、「拉麵來」等新一代日本拉麵熱店了。要是年多以前香港的日式拉麵是天下三分的三國時代的話，那麼現在的群雄競起，便一定是戰國七雄爭霸的大混亂時代了。曾在 Openrice 寫過一篇名為《日式拉麵三強鼎足篇之一：達磨》的食評文章，一心以為在完成這篇食評後不久便會陸續到另外兩間名店一嚐美味，再為它們定個高低。誰不知一晃年多，自己始終與這兩店無緣相見，未能將當時的拉麵三強作一比較，反倒是「一風堂」竟在因緣際會之下到過多次，實在慚愧！

自己之所以始終未有一訪這兩間第一代拉麵名店，歸根究抵，都是因為自己害怕排隊，特別是每次想到可能要排大半個小時，才能一嚐「豚王」的美味時，即使饞嘴如我，也懶得前往一試。

不過這一天晚上，難得來到中環，見時候尚早，竟然心血來潮，建議老婆大人一起往訪就在附近不遠的「豚王」，想不到對日本拉麵興趣一般的她竟欣然答應，終於造就了這天與「豚王」的邂逅。來到的時候才不過晚上六時左右，誰不知寂靜的「安和里」竟已一左一右的排了兩條長長的人龍，兩邊加起上來足有二十多三十人，不問而知，全部都是輪候吃拉麵的顧客。而在兩條人龍對面的街上，正中間的位置，正是這街上唯一生意最好，與附近冷冷清清的食肆構成強烈對比的傳奇名店「豚王」。

一早已知，「豚王」的食物貴精不貴多，店內除了拉麵和相關的配料外，便再沒其他食品供應，而店中所賣的拉麵，就只得 「豚王」、 「赤王」、 「黑王」和 「翠王」四款（以我所知，限量供應的「元氣王」和「海老王」只在銅鑼灣店供應，中環店應該是沒有的），這四款拉麵，都以王字為名，彷如金庸名著《倚天屠龍記》中明教的紫、白、金、青四王一樣，各有千秋，各擅勝長。而在這四王之中，下了秘製辣油和紅味噌球的「赤王」我怕它會太辣、加上芝士和橄欖油的「翠王」我又嫌它太膩、「黑王」所加的的墨魚汁亦非自己所喜，最樸實簡單的「豚王」才是我的最愛。

等候了大半個小時，終於可以入內，坐下之後，兩夫妻既已鎖定目標，不用多想，立刻叫來兩碗最基本的「豚王」準備大快朵頤。數分鐘後，兩碗熱氣騰騰，期待已久的拉麵先後送到。在享用美味的拉麵之前，熱呼呼的拉麵傳來的陣陣香氣，已是一種享受。看著那黃澄澄，泛著油光的豬骨濃湯，更是令人巴不得立刻把這湯趁熱呷上一口。

「豚王」作為這兒最基本，最沒花巧的拉麵款式，最大的賣點絕對是真材實料的拉麵湯底和扎實的煮麵功夫。師承自日本拉麵名店「一蘭」的日籍師傅生田智志先生，自從在「豚王」開業時來港座鎮之後，立刻吸引無數老饕慕名而至，希望品嚐或回味日本「一蘭拉麵」的美味。而在事實上，「豚王」的出現也的確掀起了一股日本拉麵的熱潮，至今未衰。個人覺得，它確實在香港飲食史上揭開了新的一頁，絕對有著其他後來者所不能企及的獨特地位。

這兒的豚骨湯底，濃郁鮮甜，一方面富有豚骨湯底濃稠而充滿膠質的特點，另一方面味道卻又恰到好處，香濃味美，不會讓吃麵的人感到太過肥膩，犯下過猶不及的毛病，確是值得一讚。因為這次自己只是第一次朝聖，所以麵條只是揀選了最基本的普通硬度，這麵條不太軟亦不算硬，既能掛湯，又有麥香，也頗不錯。日式叉燒水準亦高，瘦肉軟腍好吃，再加上少許脂膏，肥瘦比例適中，且帶肉香，又是另一佳品。雖然我沒有加半熟蛋和其他配料伴麵吃，但單憑這兒水準甚高的叉燒、加上大量香蔥與蒜蓉和那香甜濃郁的豬骨湯底，已經足夠讓人大快朵頤，連聲叫好了，更何況它還有秘密武器！其實我所說的是這裡獨家供應，放於桌子上供客人伴麵吃的多款配菜：「辣高菜」（即是辣雪菜）、「辣豆芽」和「黑木耳」，全部都水準甚佳，「黑木耳絲」非常爽口，「辣高菜」和「辣豆芽」則辣得過癮，十分開胃，把它們隨意地加到拉麵上作為伴菜，絕對能起到錦上添花的作用，教人吃得更是起勁，更加滿意。要不是「豚王」有這些超強的秘密武器，我可能也不會封它為王呢！「豚王」這間自己慕名已久，近日才終於一試的日式拉麵名店，果然是水準極佳，名不虛傳。難怪能在眾多拉麵高手的挑戰下，仍然能夠生意滔滔，未被其他拉麵挑戰者比下去。後記：

如果沒有記錯的話，這篇食評應該是我所寫的眾多食評之中字數最多，最長篇大論的一篇，要是你能把這長得要命的食評整篇看完的話，我可真有點佩服你的耐性，也十分多謝你的支持呢！

千両 (中環)

四年前，和那會愛著的那個他，在千兩狂吃芥辣。縱然對日本菜幾乎一無所知，也吃得出千兩的芥末和其他幾間迴轉壽司店不同，辛香卻不會嗆得鑽鼻尖。

可惜不久之後斯人便淪為記憶，我也提不起興致故地重遊，免得徒生感慨，若非公關小姐的邀請，真的無緣再會

先淺嚐一小杯白州威士忌，入口辛香，回味冗長，香甜之餘又帶點辣意，只不過不勝酒力的我，還是淺嚐輒止的好三味前菜中最叫人心動的要屬鹽燒極上佐賀和牛，粉撲撲的牛肉夾雜著柔軟流油的肥膏，肉味醇香肥厚，入口即溶，化在口中都叫人捨不得嚥下去，本不是牛魔王的我，都對這牛肉無所適從，只盼著下一次的重逢

三色海鮮沙律則十分輕怡爽口，沙律汁酸爽開胃，又帶一點香草的芬芳

香辣牛油果吞拿魚也是亮點，柔軟鮮美的吞拿魚配上醇香的牛油果，類似的搭配在蘋果綠也吃到過，不過千兩的醬汁卻高出一班，以辣油、大蒜、蔥、麻油炮製，辛香開胃，也是值得encore的佳品焗明太子芝士伴多士乍一看有點酒盜的意思，不過用上明太子味道方面就溫柔得多了，明太子表層微微燒過，鮮美又帶一點焦香，忌廉芝士醇厚柔滑，但二者配在一起同吃，明太子的鮮味又薄弱了些，而且多士的搭配又顯得有點多餘，建議少一些忌廉芝士而多一點明太子千兩的刺身取材也比一般的迴轉壽司店更講究，是夜的築地鮮嚐五點刺身就新鮮的很，五味分別是北寄貝、鰝鰺、小鯛、象拔蚌及白子。其中最值得一提的莫過於白子的初體驗，鱈魚的魚春入口滑溜，融化在口中柔軟而肥美，早已衝破心理的界限，欲罷也不能了再說主菜中最精彩的銀鱈魚伴西京味噌，銀鱈魚表皮煎得焦脆，那層薄薄的魚皮更是鮮勁十足，唯肉質可以再豐腴一些。西京味噌由味噌混合沙律醬製成，濃郁香醇又帶點豆豉的咸香，再伴上幾顆魚籽的鮮美，是口感豐富又不失創意的一道主菜日式芥末炸雞則相較平庸，不算厚粉，但外皮可以炸得再酥脆爽口一些，雞肉肉質也比較削瘦，肉香欠奉而後追加的鯖魚沙律也值得一讚，鯖魚鮮美又頗有彈性，配合酸甜開胃的梅子蕃茄汁，為吃得半飽的我們增添了一分清爽

串燒豚肉和雞翼則比較普通，表層燒得微微焦脆又帶咸香，但整體比較淡味，肉質的選材也較柴而有失肉香 喊飽之際，又呈上了三款壽司，畢竟千兩也是間迴轉壽司店嘛。牡丹蝦、大吞拿魚腩和北海道海膽之中最美味的要屬拖羅，肥美油潤亦沒有拌嘴的筋，魚油恣意在口中馳騁。牡丹蝦也柔軟鮮甜，更不會有可怕的、黑漆漆的蝦頭出現…至於海膽則少了幾分海水的鮮味，味道來得比較柔和也要讚一讚這裡的甜點布朗尼配雲尼拿雪糕， 雪糕奶香醇厚飽滿，brownie亦是朱古力濃郁卻不失甜美，表層微脆，內里更有粒粒朱古力豐富口感，一個怎夠？ 紅豆雪糕比較平庸，紅豆味和奶味都不甚突出；柚子雪芭絕對是完美的收場節目，清爽而滿載果香

再訪千兩，難得是因食物本身而感動。前事最怕有人提及，美味卻唯恐無法再嚐；而記憶中的味道，早已定格。

文華扒房+ 酒吧 (中環)

有時候我覺得自己是一個奇怪的人，明明就不是怎麼愛吃甜品，但看到漂亮的甜品又會忍不住想試，其實可能就只是為了去看看，而實際上並不怎麼愛吃的，這次我同樣被這裡超級浮誇的甜品所吸引，難得又有幾個人報名，最後如願的和幾個食友一齊來開下眼界。我不喝酒，所以點了一杯Vrigin Bloody Mary，調過味的蕃茄汁，好喝。這裡所用的橄欖油非常非常香，味道比其他餐廳吃到的質素高很多，在我記憶中吃過最好的橄欖油是在銅鑼灣的The Drawing Room，而這個同樣令人印象深刻，具獨特香味的高級橄欖油為麵包生色不少，平常吃麵包我比較喜歡配牛油，而這個橄欖油竟然能令我忘卻了我最愛的牛油。

麵包籃內的麵包款式很多，每款都是暖暖的，每一款都有特色，味道也很好，不過我最最喜歡是這個牛油麵包條，鬆軟無比之餘又充滿牛油香，好吃得整晚只吃這個麵包就夠。侍應送來一系列的Amuse Bouche，外層微脆的芝士波裡面填滿了溶掉了的芝士餡，充滿芝士鹹香，好吃。

魚子配三文魚慕絲。淡粉紅色的三文魚慕絲，未吃就能感覺到其幼滑程度，上面幾顆點綴用的魚子增添貴氣，整顆慕絲送進口裡，首先嚐到三文魚慕絲的鮮甜幼滑口感，其後帶點海水味的魚子令味道的層次更加豐富。

第一次見到如此巨型的Amuse Bouche ，中間的小盆栽其實是小橄欖樹，而銀匙上面一顆顆深綠色的就是橄欖做的啫喱，味道比醮麵包的橄欖油更濃烈。賣相是一流的，不過我覺得這橄欖啫喱未必人人受得了，濃度我覺得可以再調整一下。Garden - organic, leaves, vegetable, cress, soil, earl grey ($178)。侍應為我們送了一個小型花園，泥土上生長著不同植物，精美得讓人不捨得摧毀這個美麗花園。侍應待我們拍過照之後，就用一個小小的銀色澆水壼為我們的花園澆水，而裡面的其實並不是水，是用Earl Grey做的沙律汁，非常有特色。食友們對於用什麼做泥土很有興趣，泥土不是啡色而是綠色的，有人說是加了菜汁的薯蓉，我就覺得是豆蓉，不過無論是什麼也好，「泥土」味道是不錯的，而上面的蔬菜都很新鮮爽甜。Foie Gras - french, rhubarb, px, jus ($338)。煎鵝肝配雪莉酒汁。碟邊那個用點點砌成的倒轉三角形很漂亮，紅色小圓點帶微微酸味，忘了是用什麼材料做的，至於鵝肝我只吃了一點，鵝肝有少許筋，配著雪莉酒汁吃還不錯，而同檯食友說不知為何會吃到有少許苦澀味，不知道是鵝肝種類還是煮的問題，慶幸的是加了醬汁就剛好可以蓋掉那苦味。Roast beef - u.s., grass fed, yorkshire, gravy ($528)。侍應推來一架放著一件巨型燒牛肉的餐車來，切了一大件肉質粉嫰的燒牛肉給我們，顏色非常漂亮。牛肉肉質非常嫰，牛味濃郁，不過不知為何燒牛肉的外層很鹹，其中有一件是鹹得令我立刻吐了出來，所以最後我避過了外圍的位置，只吃中間粉嫰的部份。Yorkshire Pudding很脆，吃了一小塊，不過由於它頹頹的放在一旁有點孤單，所以被大家冷落了。Lamb - welsh, rhug estate, organic, shoulder, stew, natural jus ($508)。用透明玻璃紙包著的炆羊肩，侍應在我們拍過照之後就把羊肩移到預先擺好盤的盤子上，羊肩的份量非常多，一個女士應該未必可以吃完一碟。炆過的羊肩肉質應該是軟腍的，不過實際上又未如想像般入口鬆化，反而有點兒嚡口，不知道是不是因為羊肩的脂肪比較少。旁邊切成一個個一圓大小的蘿蔔片，味道很清甜，剛才吃了那麼多肉，可以稍為減低一下滯漏感。Beef “CALOTTE” - u.s., snake river farm, potato mille feuille, organic carrots, watercress, heirloom tomatoes, manni oil jus ($648)。賣相很神秘的cookbook，把書打開，裡面放著兩件粉嫰的牛柳，肉質同樣是嫰滑的，不過相比起燒牛肉，肉味就沒那麼濃郁。另外我最欣賞的是非常有心思的potato mille feuille，食友們都說它像黃金糕，外層微脆，薯仔做成一層層，薯味極濃，就連伴碟也做得如此細緻，厲害厲害。Cod - atlantic, seaweed, sea bean, mussel, aigre doux, fennel, dashi ($488)。雖然這裡的牛肉質素很好，不過是晚我最欣賞的主菜是這個鱈魚。首先黑黑的鱈魚塊放在一塊玻璃上面，下面放著一顆顆石春，看起來真像一件盆景。切開黑色的鱈魚塊，裡面是雪白色的魚肉，外面一層黑色的其實是紫菜層，不要以為是簡單的用紫魚包著鱈魚，當我想要細心把紫魚從魚肉表面分開，一點也不容易，好像紫菜本身就是魚的一部份。鱈魚的部份雖然未算油脂豐腴，但入口仍然是嫰滑的，因為鱈魚本身的魚味就比較淡，紫菜的海草味剛好提升了魚的鮮味，是非常令人稱嘆的一種煮法。除此之外，兩個圓圓半透明的啫喱其實是用上湯做成的，裡面還有一小粒青口肉，因為我們要大家一起分享，所以勉強的把啫喱分開，而其實整個吃會比較好，因為啫喱內部是比較水狀的，一戳破就會散掉。甜品環節首先送上OREO - crumble, vanilla, espuma ($178)。中間放著一球雲呢拿雪糕，下面鋪著OREO crumble，然後侍應拿著一支銀色的膠鎗，把用高壓處理過的朱古力泡泡注滿整個碟，最後再灑上一些OREO碎。微暖的朱古力漿入口非常幼滑，朱古力味濃郁但不會過甜，配搭著冰凍的雲呢拿雪糕，在冰火之間再吃到粒粒crumble，味道和口感都配搭都是一流的。Spring - strawberry, mango, beetroot, blueberry, peas ($178)。看過之前的食評，出現過類似的甜品，不過賣相好像改變了，新的甜品如名字一樣給人一種很春天的感覺，在草地上看到顏色鮮艷繽紛的小生果，每一款都是用材料重新呈現出來的。好像士多啤梨並不是一顆真的士多啤梨，而且由士多啤梨雪葩做成的，看起來跟真的沒兩樣，每一款都很精緻，特別是中間的草皮，原來是蛋糕來的，吃起來口感鬆軟。全晚的焦點就是這個Krug on the Moon (每位$280)。一開始決定要來這裡就是為了這個甜品，總覺得單看照片還不夠，還是要自己親身感受一下廚師如何在檯上一步一步完成才夠真實。是夜我們有七個人，廚師在一張本來可以坐九個人的圓形大檯上為我們準備這個巨型甜品，我想這應該是我這一生人中吃過最大型的，相當震撼。廚師又把熱熱的朱古力漿倒在朱古力星球上，形成一種侵蝕的效果，最後隨意的把朱古力做成的雪糕石頭丟在檯上，之前有食友形容這個甜品就像是星球大戰，看著那個破損了的朱古力球和冒白煙的朱古力殞石，確實有這種感覺。

整個甜品都是由朱古力組成的，除了紅色的紅莓醬之外，有朱古力慕絲、酒心朱古力、朱古力做成的銀色小石子等等，每一口都是朱古力，喜歡朱古力的朋友一定很開心。我未算很喜歡朱古力，不過那個朱古力殞石雪糕確實好吃，另外朱古力球裡面的朱古力漿放了些爆炸糖，所以吃的時候會有「霹靂啪啦」的微弱聲音，跟小時候吃到的一樣，非常有趣。

是晚確實是一個很難忘的經歷，特別是廚師的創意，實在令人讚嘆，雖然消費將近$1000元一位(另外開了一支紅酒)，但實在值得來試一次的。

八輪 (尖沙咀)

We initially wanted to try another restaurant at H8. Nothing was available so we decided to visited this restaurant because it only had 1 good comment and we felt adventurous. Notwithstanding it's a "Red-wine" themed Japanese restaurant - which seemed a bit odd - it also stated on Open Rice that served robatayaki (similar to yakitori), that's why I was a bit curious as well.

The elevators in the H8 building was rather interesting. To avoid embarrassment, you really had to make up your mind before you press the floor button. Once the door opened, you're immediately at the restaurant area (for most floors anyway).

正菜:

There was a lovely Japanese receptionist, not in kimono but in a slim cut business suit, and a smart looking manager, also in a possibly tailor-made suit, welcoming you once the lift opens. This is definitely a"fine-dining" type of restaurant, and I immediately thought to myself that any hope for a good robatayaki or yakitori meal should be... "out of the window":

We were shown to a table for four. We were the only other table at the restaurant. The ambiance of the restaurant was really nice. It's really felt like a whiskey/cigar bar. The tables were placed wide apart and the ceiling was high. The sofas were all pretty comfortable. The view outside was really good too.

靚景:

If you've watched the film "Lost in translations", you'll get what I mean. Not as grand and spacious as the lobby lounge at "Park Hyatt Regency", Shinjuku (which I've been with my wife and kept the name card inside the "Lost in Translations" DVD box. )but it's a smaller, cozier and quieter version. It still felt a bit like Japan rather than Hong Kong, which was quite interesting. Most importantly, you can sit there as long as you want. You won't be rushed and could take all the time you require. I'll give top score for the setting.

The menu wasn't really that extensive. I can't seem to notice the robotayaki/yakitori on the menu - there might have been one, but it was practically negligible. They basically adopted a western cuisine style, i.e. set dinner, plus some À la carte. The À la carte had tempura, unagi, some grilled meat on a hotplate, some organic vegetables which the restaurant was pretty proud of, and a lot of "iron pot rice" dishes. So the main theme here seemed to be Japanese pot cooked rice and steamed organic vegetables.

I was told that the Nepalese chef here used to work for "Nobu" at Intercontinental Hotel. I was further told that he had stayed in Japan for a number of years beforehand.

Regarding the red wine aspect, which was supposed to be another main theme of the restaurant, it wasn't as comprehensive (or intimidating, depends on how you see it) as I had initially thought. It only had less than 8 different types of red wine and a number of white wine. It also had a few different types of beer, less than 5 types of sake and 2 types of sochu. We ordered two glasses of house red from Spain and an "Aasahi":The Spanish house red was pretty good. It had a very distinctive plum after taste and was quite easy to drink.

The set plans, i.e. the dinner sets, were between HK$300-HK$500, I suppose it could be considered as quite reasonably priced for these types of restaurants. My wife ordered one dinner set for HK$380. I didn't order the set as I prefer more flexibility... which turned out to be quite a mistake. It's better to stick to the plan here, Stan.

The appetizer came shortly afterwards - It's a piece of sardine with some chopped onions and a piece of ginger:I guess one can't really go wrong with this dish as long as the sardine was reasonably edible. The spring onions were fresh and the piece of ginger was also edible. The fish, however, was not significantly different from the canned version, only a bit firmer. This just tasted pretty standard, which was OK.

Then came the piece of fish for my wife. I asked what the fish's name was and was told that it was Halibut in English. When I asked what the name was in Japanese, the attentive manager went out and asked the Japanese receptionist what the name was and I was later informed that it was Hirame ”平目”　(左口魚).

The fish was very nice. It had been stewed or simmered for quite sometime. The fish meat was extremely soft, tender and well marinated. It was very easy to separate the bone and the meat, which was very easy as there was no bone other then just the main one. It tasted like what one might have in a western/fusion restaurant. If I recall correctly, the oriental aspect of this dish was that the fish was apparently marinated with sake. The stock was slightly soy sauce based with some dashi, i.e. fish stock. On the other hand, it also tasted slightly buttery as well. Basically - to my surprise, it was very nice. My wife liked it a lot.

The Assorted Tempura set was something I ordered. It was not part of the dinner set:The size of the prawns were quite substantial. The batter was quite crispy and the prawns were quite fresh. However, it was slightly oily for my liking. But generally OK. (The price must be just 40% of "Inukiku 稻菊" or even less but the quality was similarly so-so.)The beef wrapped with possibly asparagus or enoki mushroom (my wife couldn't remember) which came with the set was, according to her, quite delicious as well. The vegetables which accompanied the dish was also very fresh.

Then came the lamb on hotplate. I felt slightly suspicious the moment I place the order for the lamb of ceramic hotplate - I didn't have to specify how I'd like the lamb to be. I didn't specify it and just left it in the hands of the chef:

It came in a ceramic hotplate which I find more of a gimmick than practical. Contrary to what one might have in a lamb hotpot, I don't suppose one would leave the lamb chop on the plate for too long as it would become quite tough. So we ate the lamb immediately. However, the three pieces of lamb was basically completely well-done. It was a bit tough.

The sauce which accompanied it was quite interesting though. Two different saucer for each of us. One was sesame sauce and another was yuzu sauce. Interesting but couldn't save the overcooked lamb. All in all, just OK. The hotplate might be better for pork instead.

Some chopped and pan fried organic vegetables were placed next to the lamb. Honestly, the standard was good but still not as good as those I've tried at "Vegi" nearby. The restaurant Vegi really focused on providing organic vegetables to customers. If you like steamed organic vegetables and related dishes, I'd strongly suggest "Farm Kitchen Vegi" to you.

Then came another dish which really dragged down the ratings of this restaurant:The Unagi, i.e. the eel, tasted unfortunately like...soil. Credit to the chef, the eel was grilled pretty well. It was pretty crispy and the sauce was quite nice. However, the source of the unagi was not good. We could not finish more than half the unagi. On a separate note, I have to commend the manager, who was very professional and courteous throughout the dinner. He offered to reheat the unagi after he saw that we still had 1/2 a plate left. Unfortunately, despite our best efforts, we could not finish the eel.

This was really the low point of the dinner. Luckily, the much anticipated iron pot rice arrived together with miso soups:Again, the manager served us. The rice pot was initially for one but, and this is something I have to declare, the restaurant gave me an extra portion instead of just the portion for one. I'm grateful for this complimentary bowl of rice and the miso soup.

The miso soup was not bad, pretty average stuff. No complaints.

精米:

Luckily for me, the rice, which was part of the set dinner, was really the best out of all dishes. Is was a bit similar to a Gomoku rice in which the Japanese rice was steamed together with five different types of vegetables (usually carrots, shiitake mushroom, bamboo shoots, dried bean curd and burdock, others will be simmered with chicken meat and mirin). The stock was usually kobu mixed with fish soup. You could imagine how nice the rice would taste after absorbing the different tastes of the ingredients and will have a very distinctive woody type of aroma.

The rice here was very good. Definitely on par with，if not better than shops which specialized in this type of "iron pot rice 釜飯（かまめし）", for example, the slightly overpriced "Aji to Mi" 味+味 in CWB. This is recommended.

When I asked what the rice was, the manager told me that it was from Japan (perhaps I don't look like I'd know anything about regions in Japan ). After asking persistently, the manager told me that the rice itself was from Hokkaido. After importing the rice, they would send it to a specialist Japanese rice shop in Hong Kong to further polish the rice. We had about 4 to 5 glasses of red wine at this point already. I ordered a glass of sochu. The two types of sochu on the menu was "Mugi" (wheat) or "Imo" (sweet potato). I asked what the mugi sochu was and was told that it was made of wheat......right. I really need to dress properly next time. After I asked for the brand of the sochu, I realized that it was "Tai So" 太祖. It's the first time I tried this and I find it very smooth to drink and quite aromatic. A bit sweeter for most mugi sochu (wheat sochu) I've ever tried.

Finally, the dessert arrived:It's lemon and chocolate ice-cream. The lemon ice cream tasted a bit like a sorbet and had a very refreshing lemon taste to it. The chocolate ice cream also had a very aromatic chocolate taste to it. Both were very good.

My wife ordered another red-wine and I ordered another sochu to enjoy the relaxing atmosphere of Hachirin.

Conclusion:

Stick to the set dinner plan and it will be both good value and good quality.
However, if you stray from the set dinner, it may not be so nice. The eel was especially shocking.

The tempura was fine but the lamb on hotplate was nothing special.

The organic vegetables, which was apparently one of the signature theme, was just so-so. If you enjoy dishes made with organic vegetables, I'd highly recommend "Farm Kitchen Vegi".

However, the kamameshi (iron pot rice) was very good and on par with, if not better than, "Aji to mi" which also specializes in kamameshi.

The service was excellent. The manager was very hands on, friendly and polite.

The dinner plan itself was quite reasonable at HK$380.

The setting and the view of Hachirin was particularly good. It's Calm, quiet and quite cozy. It apparently closed at 2:00 a.m. Honestly, I wouldn't mind getting a drink here and relax a bit. I suggest the restaurant expand their menu a bit to include food good with wine and other alcohol, like cheese, ham, grilled food...etc. This restaurant definitely has a lot of potential.

Definitely a romantic option as well. Just remember to stick to the plan, man! :

總評:

單點食物只屬一般．但套餐價錢算相宜．魚，米，質素高．

釜飯尤其值得一試．

環境一流．坐得很舒服．完全不會有任何被趕的壓力．服務好好．相當周到．

可以慢慢飲酒的地方．有景，有浪漫情調．

可以一試　（但套餐似乎較穩陣）．

Talking about "Robotayaki" - I can't remember where I've heard or read about it - basically, it meant "grilled food served from the stove". It's used to refer to fisherman, who used their oars as a cooking utensil, mainly to grill food, and after the food was cooked, serve it to you with their oars.

I've tried the nameless restaurant, "Robotayaki Japanese Restaurant" at Hung Hom as well as "Busy Susie". "Robotayaki" had a really cool and distinctive interios (every 10 customers had their own robotayaki chef, a bit like a teppanyaki setting) - it was super expensive. I can't say the quality was exceptional.

"Buzie Suzie" at TST "the Heritage", almost gave me a heart attack. The quality was not bad and the interior was pretty cool as well. However, the problem I had with Busy Suzie was that whenever a single customer enters the shop, EVERYONE - everyone, in the shop would shout out loud, and someone would strike the TaiKo - i.e. Great Drums. It was LOUD. It really affected and interrupted my dinner significantly to such an extent that I will not consider returning.